Behind the clothing labels hanging in global storefronts lies a grim reality within Myanmar’s factories. Since the military seized power in a brutal coup in February 2021, the nation’s garment sector—once a beacon of economic hope—has been transformed into a high-risk environment "woven in fear."
A harrowing report by the Business and Human Rights Center (BHRC) has exposed an escalating pattern of systemic abuse. Between March 2021 and October 2024, the organization tracked 665 allegations of rights violations. The briefing, released on December 18, details how the collapse of labor protections and military repression have merged to create a landscape where exploitation occurs with near-total impunity.
A Culture of Coercive Productivity
The BHRC found that forced labor indicators are now "deeply embedded" in production systems. More than 50 percent of recorded cases (349 instances) involved mandatory overtime and escalating production quotas. Workers described a life of severe exhaustion, fainting, and sleep deprivation, often forced to work overnight without adequate rest, meals, or safe transport.
"The evidence points to conditions in which protections have deteriorated so extensively that harmful practices can occur unchecked," the BHRC stated. "Workers face sustained exposure to coercion, insecurity, and retaliation."
The report also highlights pervasive gender-based violence, appearing in 36 percent of cases. Women workers reported being subjected to verbal abuse, sexual harassment, and even physical assaults, such as hair-pulling, as punishment for missing targets or refusing overtime.
Violence Beyond the Factory Walls
This repression is part of a wider climate of fear as the military tightens its grip ahead of a planned general election in 2026. Just recently, Amnesty International reported an airstrike on a hospital in Rakhine State on the evening of International Human Rights Day, further illustrating the military's disregard for civilian safety.
Joe Freeman, Myanmar researcher for Amnesty International, emphasized the gravity of the situation:
"Nowhere and no one is safe from the violence of the Myanmar military, which is widening its repression ahead of an election... Almost five years after the military coup, the international community must take concerted, targeted, and effective action to hold perpetrators accountable."
The Dilemma for Global Brands
The crisis presents a profound ethical challenge for international fashion brands. While some have exited the country, others continue to source from Myanmar, claiming they can manage risks through heightened due diligence. German label Engelbert Strauss, for instance, noted that after careful study and consultation, they believe manufacturing in Myanmar remains possible under strict human rights monitoring.
However, the BHRC argues that the collapse of civic space makes genuine monitoring nearly impossible. Allegations include management coaching workers on what to say to auditors and even installing CCTV cameras in front of restrooms to monitor employee movement.
"Brands sourcing from Myanmar will be remembered for whether they used their leverage to protect workers or enabled conditions under which violations deepened," the BHRC warned. As the sector continues to operate under military surveillance, the responsibility lies with global companies to prove that their presence delivers actual improvements rather than reinforcing a cycle of harm.
