What began as a niche underground trade for budget-conscious shoppers has evolved into a national crisis that now threatens the very fabric of Indonesia’s economic and environmental health. Despite a formal ban on the importation of used clothing that has been in place since 2015, the country is currently witnessing a massive surge in the "thrifting" ecosystem. This phenomenon has created a profound dilemma for the government, as it struggles to balance the public's desire for affordable fashion against the devastating reality of a domestic textile industry that is rapidly being hollowed out by illegal competition.
The scale of the problem is reflected in recent trade data, which shows that between January and July of this year, used clothing imports reached a staggering 1.09 million kilograms, valued at approximately $1.31 million. These garments are largely smuggled into the country through porous maritime routes, bypassing official customs checks to reach the hands of millions of consumers. While the prices at the counter appear to be a bargain, industry leaders warn that the influx is causing irreparable damage. The Indonesian Textile Association has noted that this torrent of ultra-cheap, second-hand garments has combined with rising international tariffs and weakening global demand to create a "perfect storm" for local producers. Economists now estimate that these illegal imports have already seized roughly 15 percent of the domestic market share, leaving small and medium-sized enterprises struggling to survive.
However, the crisis extends far beyond economic figures and into the realm of environmental catastrophe. The business model of thrifting in Indonesia is inherently wasteful; sellers typically purchase large bundles containing hundreds of items, but often find that only about 20 percent of the clothing is in a sellable condition. The remaining 80 percent—frequently torn, stained, or otherwise unusable—is discarded as waste. These mountains of unwanted textiles are overwhelming local landfills that are already straining under the weight of the nation’s solid waste woes, turning yesterday's fashion trends into tomorrow's ecological burden.
In response to these worsening conditions, the Indonesian government has recently stepped up its efforts to dismantle the illegal trade. Authorities have begun a coordinated crackdown that involves working with major e-commerce companies to prevent the sale of imported second-hand clothes online. To further tighten the noose on smugglers, Finance Minister Purbaya Yudhi Sadewa announced late in October that the government would impose strict fines, penalties, and blacklisting for those involved in the illegal trade. Beyond mere punishment, the government is also pushing for a structural shift in the market, encouraging traders to transition toward selling locally made textile products.
The ultimate goal of these measures is to revive the national textile industry and secure jobs for local producers who have been displaced by the flood of foreign waste. Officials are emphasizing that the perceived savings found in a second-hand bundle are, in fact, a costly gamble for the nation. As the government tightens supervision at major ports and digital marketplaces, the hope is that Indonesian consumers will pivot back to supporting domestic craftsmanship, ensuring that the true cost of fashion does not come at the expense of the country’s economic and environmental future.
